Saturday, we all walked three miles up the only paved road in Murighiol, past the dig site, to monastery where the pilgrimage of Saints Epictetus and Astion (the two saints which were found at Halmyris) was being held.
The ceremony lasted over four hours, but we only stayed there for one. Beforehand, John instructed us to dress appropriately; ladies must wear pants or skirts that cover up the knees, and modest shirts that cover your shoulders. Most of us were scrambling because none of us thought to being pants or modest clothing, since it's hot as Hades and we spend most of our time in the dirt. Thankfully, Anne lent me a long scarf which I wrapped around my waist into a makeshift skirt.
Before we even arrived at the monastery, when we were still a quarter mile down the road, we could hear monks singing and chanting.
People must have came from all over to this pilgrimage because there were hundreds of cars, tour buses and horse and carts. As we approached the gate entrance of the monastery's property, you could see the tops of a hundred umbrellas shading families from the hot sun.
The pilgrimage was an outdoor event, since they are currently building a new church. Orthodox monks wearing long robes, gold crosses and monastic headwear sang under a lean-to, while villagers stood or knelt in prayer before them. Bishops, wearing white robes and gold headwear, lead the prayers.
The remains of the saints were held under a separate covered structure, where people could get in line to view them. I was disappointed to see that the remains were covered in velvet cloth in a clear container, so you couldn't really see the skeleton at all. Still, villagers kissed the glass and knelt to pray, as widows wearing black robes and hair-coverings looked on.
Although I am agnostic, I thought the songs of the monks were absolutely beautiful. In fact, I videotaped some of it so you could hear it. I don't know how good the quality is, but hopefully you can make out some singing.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sMpeo3-vBjc&feature=youtube_gdata_player
I also discreetly took a lot of photos of the villagers. I am interested by religion and like watching people paralyzed in prayer. It's something I never could do myself because I never felt a connection with "God" or a god, even as a child. So, in some ways, I envy the faith these people have in their religion. Still, I prefer to take an objective stance.
After spending nearly an hour at the pilgrimage, we all walked up the road to the nearest bar and had a few drinks (everyone here is either agnostic or atheist, but we all noted the irony).
Sounds like a very spiritual experience. The pilgrimage looks interesting too.
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